I have not had much luck with the inductance setting on LCR meters. Most of them are crap, inaccurate and just plane useless. I think this is the 5th cheapish meter I have tried and I have finally hit on one that works and works well. In the picture below is a 1.8uH slug tuned variable inductor. So yes, it works and is accurate and with 3 decimal places its going to be nice to use for getting those hand wound toriod inductors right. The test frequency is a bit low, it would be nice if it was in the MHZ range rather than KHZ, but for that you need to spend up big on high end gear, not $70 on ebay.
Just finished a new decade resistor box, it currently covers 10, 100, 1000, 10000 ohms, I did not have any 100K or 1M 1% resistors so i will have to go back and add them in at some stage, not that it is really important, none of the typical measurements that I will be doing will go anywhere near such big values of resistance.
This is all kind of Schrodinger’s cat, but it turns out not all 6uH is made equally. 6uH can be 6uH, 6uH can be 12uH and 6uH can be a capacitor and the only thing different between all these 6uH’s is the frequency they have been measured at.
So tonight i got well and truly schooled on inductance and why my bandpass filter was looking rather bonkers. I built it with the right capacitors, i wound inductors with the right number of turns for the required inductance i assembled a really nice looking filter. But when it came to measuring the bandpass it was orders of magnitude wrong.
This is how my filter should have looked, well, at least something like that.
This was the bonkers mess I was measuring in the Bode Analyser.
So after much discussion with a much smarter man than me, and working out everything i was doing wrong, I ended up with this testy jig, 200R in series with the inductor, feeding one side with the signal generator while measuring both the input voltage and the voltage across the inductor. Changing frequency until my output voltage is 50% of the input and then using this following formula to calculate the inductance. L= R*sqrt(3)/(2*pi*f) that at least gets me in the ball park, and it turns out I was orders of magnitude off with the inductors i wound and were most likely acting like capacitors at 20mhz where my filter was peaking.
No No No, I have not abandoned the receiver project, I have just hit what is likely the first of many road blocks, and I have not yet worked out what is going on or why for that matter. So in the mean time, I am going to turn out some bits and pieces that I have been meaning to do for a while, while I contemplate what is going on with the bandpass filter and why its center frequency is bonkers off where it should be. More on that to come.
Anyway, I always need to connect A to B and B to C while i am building things, so i made up some double ended easy grips for just such an occasion. Hardly rocket surgery and defiantly not brain doctoring, but handy to have none the less. Next up is a test jig for measuring inductors on the oscilloscope.
The Red Pitaya Stem Lab is a multi function piece of test equipment no bigger than the palm of your hand. For the most part, my needs for test equipment are not that demanding, I just need simple devices with simple controls to give me the kinds of information I need for my homebrew projects. For my needs there are 5 basic functions listed below that I will find immediate use for, but there are other uses it has also, like being turned into an SRD Transceiver or being used as an LCR meter among others. Total bandwidth is 50Mhz
1. Oscilloscope: doing probe compensation.
2. Function Generator: is part of the oscilloscope interface upto 1v p-p output in Sqr, Sin etc.
4. Bode Analyzer: I have spent a fair amount of time today playing with the bode analyzer and trying to get to grips with it, I am unsure about things like what probes to use, what input settings and what voltages to use on the sweep generator. Well i got this far and have a plot that looks like it should. One thing that i did not do was terminate the double tuned band pass filter with 50 ohms, this will have an effect on this plot and how it looks. But, it does actually look like a thing, even if it looks rather wonky and the high side attenuation is rising at the edge where it should still be falling.
5, Logic Analyzer: Not something that I use very often, but when you have some Arduino widget that is not playing ball, its nice to have the right tool for the job on hand.
At 3mhz a square wave still looks square, by 5mhz its starting to look sinusoidal, nothing fancy, but good enough for my needs. All in all, i am happy with how well this thing works, I am no power user with high demands, I just want to be able to see a waveform, produce a waveform and see spectral content of RF i am producing with the highest frequency of interest being 7mhz, I look forward to putting the Red Pitaya to use in the CW Receiver project i am just starting.
My initial thoughts after using it for some time are still positive, there are some things that are a little funny in how they work, but for the most part, this is going to be a good tool to have on my bench, that will do just about everything that i could want.
A good lab power supply can cost a lot, even a basic one is not all that cheep and what you get is not all that convenient. 1 variable supply and that’s about it. But with off the shelf components and some time you can make a good lab supply for about $100.
When I am experimenting, i will often build circuits on separate boards and wired them together into a functioning whole, and this means needing 3 or more power supply rails. Most of the things i build do not have huge current demands, so as long as each rail can supply 2A it will do all that I need and supply voltages from 3 to 30v. So, with that as my design criteria, the basic specs for the lab supply became as follows.
- 4 channels
- 10A maximum current
- 2 variable supplies 3-12v and 12-30v
- 2 fixed supplies
I am not a fan of building things that can kill me, so for the power supply I used this 10amp 12v switch mode PSU and for the variable supplies I used a Buck and Boost converter to get the 3->30v coverage. Actually it will work down to 2.5v and up to 34.5v, a nice huge swing.
Next was to mark out, drill, cut and mount the voltage display modules, the pots and binding posts. The 3-12v supply has a 10 turn pot and the 12 to 30v a single turn pot.
The integrated power jack and switch was then installed on the rear panel.
10amp house wire was used to wire the switch and 240v power, I soldered and heat shrinked this side.
Spade connectors were used to wire into the psu.
The buck and boost converters were mounted onto the top of the psu.
The rest of the 12v wiring was then installed, crimps being used on the psu side and everything else soldered.
Wiring complete, liberal use of zip ties to make it tidy inside.
The inside of the front panel now it is all wired up.
And now with 240v applied. Works a treat, the voltages are stable under load and for under $100 I have a pretty good lab power supply that will keep up with my home brewing needs.
Well, its not a full decade, but 11K ohms, but, does what I need. I needed a quick and dirty variable resistance box for measuring the in and out impedance of things, and so I knocked this up with a couple of pots and a set of binding pots to put the multi meter probes into and a set of easy grippers.
A lab power supply can cost a lot for a good multi channel one. I dont want to spend $300 + dollars on a 3 channel psu, so I am making my own out of an ATX PSU and a handful of buck and boost converter modules. The good thing about doing things this way is that you do not have to play with 240v.
The specs will be 3.3v, 5v and 12v fixed supplies, 2 times 3-12v variable supplies and 12-30v variable supply. A cornucopia of supply rails with the 12v rail able to supply a maximum of 20 amps, i will not want for power when I am home brewing circuits and need multiple supply rails.
The buck and boost converters are off ebay, they also have current limiting, which is nice I will have them turned down to less than an amp most of the time, and the most they can supply is 5a, i will never get close to hitting the max on the psu even if i make something that tries to draw a lot of amps.
Mocking up the layout after making the base of the case.
The entire case will be framed in alloy angle as i have no bending facilities.
Cutout and mounted the psu to the back panel.
Front panel is as crooked as a hillbillies tooth thanks to not owning a real drill press and using a dremel drill press for doing the pilot holes. I will probably keep it and not have a do-over, now its on to the rats nest of wiring and building in the rest of the case.
I ordered these kits on Monday and had them in my hands Tuesday, nice work overnight express delivery. Bought from VK3AQZ Kits for $20 each plus post. I would be hard pressed to Ebay the parts for these and come in under that cost and then they would not look as professional and well made as these with their machined cases and chromed labels.
The 2 kits i bought give a total of 10 and 50 db of attenuation, the first gives 1, 2, 3 and 4 db of attenuation.
The 2nd gives 10, 20, 20 db of attenuation. They are rated to 250mw and 50mhz. But, with paralleling the shunt capacitors you can make these 1w, either way, for just about every application one might use these for in their homebrew projects, they are more than adequate for the job at hand. Form 3db points on filters and resonators, to 10 and 20db points to align the rf meter, to noise testing and the like. Attenuators are handy kits to have.
Kits go together very easy.